EMPRESS OF CHINA—Temple artifacts and palace chandeliers in a rooftop setting create an elegant retreat with stunning views. The menu features such refined specialties as ginger Dungeness crab, Mongolian lamb and baby quail flambé. $$. Serves lunch and dinner daily. 838 Grant Ave. 434-1345 Map 1, D4

THE MANDARIN—A regal setting offering sweeping Bay Views and such northern Chinese specialties as ginger crab, Mongolian beef and mango prawns. $$. Serves lunch and dinner daily. Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point St. 673-8812 Map 1, A2

SHANGHAI 1930—Sleek and sexy, the restaurant serves classic dishes prepared with a modern aesthetic. Live jazz six nights a week in the lounge. $$$. Serves lunch M–F, dinner M–Sa. 133 Steuart St. 896-5600 Map 1, F5

YANK SING—An upscale dim sum parlor where you need no menu: just point at what looks good as the servers roll the carts past your table. $$. Serves lunch daily. 49 Stevenson Place. 541-4949. Second location: 101 Spear St. 957-9300 Map 1, E5