BADLANDS -This extremely popular Castro bar had a major makeover and it's busier than ever. The name better describes its former Western decor-now it's sleek and stylish, with a metal bar, exposed brick, TV monitors playing videos and a small dance floor in back. Happy hour weekdays 4 pm-7 pm; Beer Bust Su, 4 pm-8 pm. Open daily, 2 pm-2 am. 4121 18th St. 626-9320 Map 1, G6

THE CAFE-The crowd generates a happy party atmosphere in the Castro. And there's no cover charge. Open daily 2 pm-2 am. Happy hour weekdays (with pool tables and far fewer people) 4-8 pm. 2367 Market St. @ Castro Street . 861-3846 Map 1, G6

THE EAGLE SF-An institution, with several bars, a large outdoor patio and a shop offering something for everyone-everyone in leather, that is. Theme nights and cover charges vary. Beer Bust Su, 3-6 pm. Open noon-2 am, 365 days a year. 398 12th St. at Harrison St. 626-0880 Map 2, D8

ESTA NOCHE-Latino transsexuals, elaborately outfitted and lip-syncing to canciones calientes at this Mission District hangout (the location can be iffy; better to travel in groups). Shows Tu-W, 10:30 pm and midnight; M, Th, F at 11:30 pm; Sa-Su 7 pm and 11:30 pm. M-Th no cover, $6 F-Su. Open daily 1 pm-2 am (until 3 am on Sa). 3079 16th Street between Mission and Valencia streets. 861-5757 Map 1, I6

HARVEY 'S-The epicenter of the Castro scene, where huge windows allow sitting on the corner watching' all the boys-and girls-go by. Full bar and bar menu. One of the most comfortable spots in the neighborhood. Open weekdays 11 am-2 am, weekends 9 am-2 am. 500 Castro Street at 18th St. 431-4278 Map 1, H6

THE LEXINGTON-Grrrls rule at this Mission District neighborhood hangout, a basic bar with pool tables and jukebox where dykes can chill and enjoy good times and a casual atmosphere, open from 3 pm-2 am daily. 3464 19th St. at Lexington St. 863-2052 Map 1, I7

MARTUNIS-A popular, retro-swank piano bar that specializes in martinis of all kinds. The large, dark front room has a '40s lush life atmosphere where you can talk (away from the piano) if showtunes are not your thing. Open 4 pm-2 am daily; music begins at 9 pm, Sa-Th, and at 5:30 pm on F. Four Valencia St. 241-0205 Map 1, I5

METRO-This Castro staple has a sleek interior now after its renovation. There's a long balcony overlooking busy Market St. and the bar shares space with a good tapas restaurant. Very popular on weekends and on Tu for karaoke. Bar open daily at 11 am, lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm. 3600 16th St. at Market St. 703-9751 Map 1, H6

PILSNER INN-A neighborhood bar with a great jukebox, multiple beer choices, a pool table, a big outdoor patio (a smoker's heaven) and no attitude. No wonder it's so popular. Open daily until 2 am 225 Church St. 621-7058 Map 1, H6

THE STUD-This venerable club has some of S.F's longest-running and most popular club nights, with everything from house to rock, depending upon the day. Covers and theme nights vary throughout the week. Open daily at 5 pm. Happy hour daily 5-9 pm. Tu is the famous Tranny-Shack open until 3 am and Sa is Sugar, until 4 am. 399 9th St. at Harrison St. 863-6623 Map 2, C8

TRAX-A basic bar in the heart of the Haight-Ashbury . There's a pool table and a good mix of gay and straight men and women enjoying conversation and reasonably priced drinks. Trax also has special theme evenings. Open daily noon-2 am. Happy hour M-F noon-7 pm. 1437 Haight St. between Masonic Ave. and Ashbury St. 864-4213 Map 1, G5

TWIN PEAKS TAVERN-A Castro institution, more than 30 years old, popular with a graying crowd. A relaxed, social place where everybody knows your name-or wants to. Irish coffees are the fave. Open daily noon-2 am. 401 Castro St. at Market St. 864-9470 Map 1, I6