Photo credit: Sandor Balatoni, courtesy SFCVB

The term “Bay Area” refers to nine counties surrounding San Francisco Bay. A total of seven bridges cross the bay; the Bay Bridge connects San Francisco to Oakland and Berkeley, while the Golden Gate Bridge connects San Francisco to Marin County. The Bay Area is also home to one of the best public transit systems in the country: Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART), which provides rail service between San Francisco and Oakland, Berkeley, Walnut Creek, and other communities. BART also provides service to San Francisco International Airport (SFO; see page 68 for more information about the airport) and to Oakland International Airport via a shuttle from the Coliseum/Oakland Airport station. Muni provides transportation throughout the city of San Francisco via bus and metrorail (underground and aboveground), while Caltrain provides rail service between San Francisco and San Jose/Gilroy. August climate: Average high: 72° F Average low: 56° F Record high: 100° F Record low: 45° F Average rainfall: .07 in. San Francisco population: 750,000 City land area: 46 sq. miles Bay Area population: 6.7 million Bay Area median home price: $611,000 Credit: Lewis Sommer, Courtesy SFCVB

THE CASTRO—Rainbow flags flying from homes and businesses welcome visitors to the center of gay cultural life in San Francisco. The heart of the district is along Castro St. just south of Market St., and boasts the Castro Theatre, an art deco movie palace that shows classic films and hosts film festivals. Around it, streets are lined by hip cafés, lively restaurants, and an eclectic selection of boutiques showcasing everything from mod clothing to skin-care products to edgy art. Muni’s F line provides convenient transportation to the neighborhood in the historic streetcars that run along Market St. Map 2, H6

CHINATOWN—San Francisco’s Chinatown is the largest and oldest in North America, and entering its dragon-crested gates (on Grant Ave. at Bush St.) is like stepping into another country. Grant, Stockton, and Kearny streets between Bush St. and Broadway are lined by restaurants, antiques stores, produce markets, and an absolute flurry of people. See fortune cookies being made at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory at 56 Ross Alley (off Washington St. west of Kearny St.), or visit the Julia Morgan–designed YWCA building (965 Clay St.) that houses the Chinese Historical Society of America, whose museum chronicles Chinese–
American culture. Map 1, D4

CIVIC CENTER—Built in 1915, the stunning sandstone-and-copper dome of the restored City Hall structure is taller than the nation’s Capitol building. With this structure at its core, the Civic Center area blends glorious beaux arts architecture and striking modern design—such as the War Memorial Opera House, housed next door to the ultramod Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. From Union Square, BART provides convenient transportation to the Civic Center, though we recommend a cab to travel to or from the neighborhood at night (approx. fare from downtown, $10). Map 1, B7

COW HOLLOW/UNION STREET—Once occupied by dairy-cow pastures, the quaint area has evolved into a neighborhood for the city’s emerging gentry. Union St. west of Van Ness Ave. is revered for its independent and big-name boutiques; after dark, eligible singles flock to the popular restaurants, bars, and clubs along Union and Fillmore streets. Map 2, H2

THE EMBARCADERO—The palm tree-lined thoroughfare along the city’s eastern waterfront boasts San Francisco destinations such as the Embarcadero Center and the Ferry Building, as well as views of Treasure Island and the Bay Bridge. Join the happy sightseers for a scenic promenade. Map 1, B2–F4

HAIGHT-ASHBURY—You may know it as hippie heaven—and this site of the Summer of Love is decidedly popular with the tattooed and body–pierced set—but the area is certainly open to all. Haight St. between Stanyan St. and Central Ave. is also home to some of the city’s hippest shoe stores, mod fashion boutiques, small coffee shops, and cozy eateries. Western Haight St. ends at Golden Gate Park. From downtown, the outbound N-Judah provides transportation to Carl and Cole streets. From there, Haight St. is only three blocks away. Map 2, G5

HAYES VALLEY—The section of Hayes St. between Franklin and Octavia streets has experienced a renaissance of hip. It’s now best known for eclectic and primarily modern home-furnishing stores, and is also a hot spot for fashion-forward boutiques, unusual bars, and gourmet eateries. If you can get a reservation, Hayes Street Grill, Absinthe, Jardinière, and Citizen Cake are wonderful dining options before a show at the nearby symphony hall or opera house (see “Civic Center” for more information). From downtown, ride any of Muni’s underground Market St. rail lines to the Civic Center station, and then walk four blocks west up Grove St. to get to the heart of the action. Map 1, A8

JAPANTOWN—The three-block area in the city’s Western Addition bordered by Geary, Post, Laguna, and Fillmore streets is the hub for the Japanese community in San Francisco. The Japantown Center, opened in the spring of 1968, contains a collection of art galleries, bookstores, restaurants, karaoke bars, the AMC Kabuki 8 movie theater, and craft shops. Kabuki Springs & Spa, also in the center, offers a full range of Eastern–inspired body and beauty treatments. Though Muni’s 38 Geary St. buses provide transportation to Japantown, we recommend taking a cab to the area (approx. fare from downtown, $14). Map 2, H4

MARIN COUNTY—Cross the Golden Gate Bridge to experience some of the bay’s most scenic views, as well as ample opportunity for outdoor activities such as hiking and biking. In the sunny hamlet of Sausalito, explore an eclectic collection of art galleries, restaurants, and souvenir shops along the main drag, Bridgeway, or visit the town’s smaller neighbor, Tiburon, for waterside dining at Guaymas or Sam’s. Ferry service to Sausalito is available through Blue & Gold Fleet and Golden Gate Ferry (705-5555 or www.511.org for details). Map 3, D4

THE MARINA—Occupied largely by affluent 20- and 30-somethings, the waterfront neighborhood nestled between Fort Mason and the Presidio is one of the city’s most scenic. The main drag, Chestnut St., is lined by women’s fashion boutiques, bars, and restaurants, including several sushi hot spots. Along the bay, you’ll find the Marina Green, a large swath of grass typically occupied by sunbathers, kite flyers, and volleyball players. Take in the view from there or on the popular hiking/jogging trails that extend west from the Marina Green through Crissy Field. Map 2, H2

Credit: Phillip H. Coblentz, Courtesy SFCVB

THE MISSION—The city’s oldest neighborhood is also its most dynamic. A Spanish expedition from Mexico established the district’s namesake Mission Dolores in 1776. Today, you’ll find a blend of working-class families, hipsters, and affluent professionals there. Valencia and Guerrero streets between 16th and 24th streets are lined by fashion and eclectic furnishings boutiques, along with some of the city’s most soulful restaurants. Dig into a burrito in one of the taquerias along Mission St., or sip and groove in the cocktail lounges along Valencia. Ride BART to 16th St./Mission to get to the heart of the action, or hail a cab (approx. fare from downtown, $12). Map 2, I-J 6-7

NOB HILL—Known for its grand dame hotels and panoramic views, this is the area where such tycoons as Leland Stanford and “Bonanza Jim” Fair built their mansions. The elegant Fairmont Hotel, the gorgeous, neo-gothic Grace Cathedral, and the brownstone Pacific Union Club are just a few of the breathtaking structures; take it all in over a cocktail at the Top of the Mark in the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins. Catch the cable car up California or Powell streets to avoid the steep uphill climb. Map 1, C5

NOE VALLEY—Centered around the eclectic 24th St. shopping strip between Diamond and Dolores streets, Noe (pronounced NO-ee) Valley is one of the city’s most small-town-style, family-friendly neighborhoods. Plenty of young parents with strollers and dogs chat outside the coffee shops or the Saturday farmers’ market. A walk around the area reveals plenty of quaint shops and restaurants, and at the top of a hill near Sanchez and 21st streets, you’re rewarded with a great panorama of the city. Muni’s J-Church line offers convenient transportation to the heart of the neighborhood. Map 2, H7

NORTH BEACH—The neighborhood along Columbus Ave. between Jackson Square and Fisherman’s Wharf is influenced equally by its connections to Old World Italy and the late-1950s Beat movement. Always busy, the district’s restaurants, cafés, and cocktail lounges transform into particularly crowded and rowdy haunts on the weekend. Head to Grant Ave. and Stockton St. for Italian cuisine, or check out Columbus Ave. for live jazz, Broadway for strip clubs and nightclubs, and upper Grant Ave. for a number of eclectic, independent fashion boutiques. Map 1, C3

PACIFIC HEIGHTS/FILLMORE STREET—This tony enclave perched in the hills atop Cow Hollow features some of the city’s most spectacular mansions. The section of Fillmore St. between Bush and Pacific streets is home to fashion boutiques that run the gamut from casual to high–end, and sidewalk cafés and day spas offer opportunities to unwind. Map 2, H3

PRESIDIO HEIGHTS—Quiet, tree-lined streets, lovely gardens, and palatial homes characterize this affluent residential neighborhood, which lies in the hills nestled against the southern edge of the Presidio. The well-heeled venture to Sacramento St. between Lyon St. and Arguello Blvd. in search of haute couture, fine antiques, and eclectic home furnishings. Map 2, G3

RICHMOND DISTRICT—The numbered avenues north of Golden Gate Park are populated by large segments of the city’s Russian, Irish, and Asian communities, and the restaurants and bars throughout the neighborhood reflect that mix. The area also boasts 4,000 years of art in the expansive Legion of Honor, located in Lincoln Park, which is also home to a municipal golf course and hiking trails that hug the cliffs overlooking the ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge. Map 2, A-F, 4-5

RUSSIAN HILL—A charming, affluent, and quintessentially Old San Francisco neighborhood, the district is home to soaring houses and apartment buildings on hills that offer panoramic views. The Powell–Hyde cable car will drop you off in its heights (anywhere on Hyde between Washington and Greenwich streets); from there, be sure to take in the famously curvy Lombard St., grab an ice-cream cone at the original Swensen’s, visit Hyde St. for upscale, quaint restaurants, and hit up Polk St. for a day of shopping or a night on the town. Map 1, B3

SILICON VALLEY—Successive waves of innovation dating back to the ’60s transformed the formerly agrarian area south of the city into a global center for technology. The urban center of Silicon Valley can be found in San Jose, home of the NHL’s San Jose Sharks and Santana Row, an upscale open-air shopping center in a parklike setting. In nearby Los Gatos, once a logging community, a major redevelopment project transformed the downtown area into a vibrant restaurant and nightclub district. Within such residential communities as Palo Alto, Los Altos, Saratoga, Cupertino, and Sunnyvale, you’ll find quality shopping and dining districts. Map 3, E6

SOUTH OF MARKET—Formerly an industrial warehouse district, the area south of Market St. (SoMa) has evolved into a vibrant nightlife zone with the reputation of one of San Francisco’s hottest up-and-coming neighborhoods. In the daytime, the action is centered around Moscone Convention Center, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and the Giants’ AT&T Park. The hopping after-dark scene is dominated primarily by nightclubs. Map 1, B-E 6-8

THE SUNSET—Taking its name from its location in the city’s westernmost region, the Sunset consists primarily of early-20th-century row houses and is typically busy with UCSF students (the university is located there) and professionals. The commercial core, at Ninth Ave. near Judah St., is lined with restaurants, cafés, and sandwich shops. Accessible via Muni’s N-Judah line, this is a great place to grab a bite or fill your picnic basket before venturing into Golden Gate Park, just north of the neighborhood. Map 2, A-F6

UNION SQUARE—San Francisco’s most well known neighborhood takes its name from the the pro–Union rallies held there during the Civil War era. Today, the square is the central gathering area in the city’s luxury shopping, hotel, dining, and theater district—offering options for nearly every taste. Accessible by cable car at Powell and Market streets, it is bordered by Stockton, Geary, Powell, and Post streets, which are home to Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom are in the nearby Westfield San Francisco Centre. East of the square, you’ll find luxury boutiques such as Marc Jacobs and Tse along idyllic Maiden Lane; Cartier, Bulgari, Versace, and Armani reside along Post St. The Geary Theater and Curran Theatre are located on Geary St. west of the square, and flagship stores for Banana Republic, Williams–Sonoma, and Levi Strauss are nearby. Fine-dining restaurants include Michael Mina in the Westin St. Francis, Postrio in the Prescott Hotel, and Farallon at the Kensington Park Hotel, while the Redwood Room in the Clift Hotel and Harry Denton’s Starlight Room offer cocktails and nightlife. Map 1, D5

WINE COUNTRY—About 50 miles north of San Francisco, a number of gorgeous epicurean destinations easily accessed from the city await you. Sonoma County offers the charming towns of Sonoma, Glen Ellen, Sebastopol, and Healdsburg, among others, with plenty of shopping and wine-tasting opportunities. Nearby Napa Valley, one of the world’s premier wine-producing regions, boasts the ongoing addition of hotels, restaurants, and tasting rooms in and around towns such as Yountville, Oakville, and Rutherford. Hwy. 29 and the Silverado Trail both lead past scores of wineries in a corridor through the valley that continues past beautiful scenery and luxurious inns; St. Helena is home to the famed French Laundry restaurant (you’ll need reservations months in advance) and a historic downtown dotted with fashion and jewelry boutiques as well as other restaurants. In Calistoga, set aside time to visit some of the hot-springs resorts. For more on what to see and do in Sonoma and Napa Valley, see page 65. Maps 4 and 5