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San Francisco - The New Guard
By Marcia Gagliardi


San Francisco’s Fresh Crop of Talented Chefs Under 35


Ryan Scott

Ravi Kapur

San Francisco has its share of big chef names with their eponymous and top-rated restaurants. But a new wave of chefs is stepping up to solidify the Bay Area’s reputation for continuously forging new culinary ground. This group of six chefs—all under 35—come fully loaded with talent, vision, a different perspective, and a winning attitude. Keep your eye—and your tastebuds—on these young foodies.

RYAN SCOTT

After fortuitously requesting a wok and food dehydrator for Christmas at the ripe old age of nine, Scott later followed his cooking destiny and enrolled in the California Culinary Academy (CCA). He did an internship at Bistro Roxy in Reno, Nevada; some stints in Hawaii; and has worked at local luxe favorite Restaurant Gary Danko and under the mentorship of Daniel Boulud in New York.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
I was introduced to really fine food at a young age, and my parents owned a restaurant when I was 11. They always supported me in my cooking pursuits, even letting me make dinner at the age of eight (canned-tuna chili melts, anyone?) and move to San Francisco to enroll in the CCA. My inspiration comes from the large love and support of my parents who let a kid chase the only thing he has ever loved doing.

What cuisines inspire you?
I love the Mediterranean and all the clean flavors displayed in their cooking; it’s so simple, fresh and no fuss—that's the way I like to eat, so that's the way I like to cook!

Which chef do you admire most?
Bruce Hill [of BIX]—I admire anyone who has been in the SF spotlight cooking as long as he has. He’s had so many successful restaurants, but remains so humble and down to earth. Plus he's at the farmers’ market every weekend with his staff; that's cool. Second is Loretta Keller [of COCO-5OO]: Anyone who reinvents an SF staple, and makes it hipper and even better, how could I not admire her? Plus she is so sweet and nice.

What's your 10-year plan/dream?
I would love to have my own restaurant in SF, do a book one day, and have a wine bar (I'm a big fan of Avec in Chicago). Oh, and if TV came a-knockin’, I wouldn't mind.

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
Shane Stewart at San Francisco Specialty [for produce]. That guy has [done] and would do anything for me, especially when I'm in a crunch, plus he comes to the café almost every Friday and tells me what’s looking good.

What will we never find on your menu?
Raw bell peppers.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
ZA Pizza for a Caesar salad, slice of Bluto (feta, spinach and sausage) and a Sierra Nevada. I like eating at the bar at Scott Howard and leaving it up to him—I hate to order off menus. And Turtle Tower [on Larkin Street]; I usually have a hangover when I eat there, hence the reason I'm putting my face into a big steaming bowl of veggie tofu pho.

Favorite late-night snack.
Hummus with a little minced cilantro and feta on grilled flat bread. My sous chef Pedro makes the best hummus! His secret: sumac and Tabasco.

How do you like your eggs?
I hate eggs; I cooked breakfast for four years. But if I had to eat them, I would have them soft poached, with Maldon salt and cracked black pepper.

RAVI KAPUR

Although he grew up in Hawaii, it was while working in a pizza parlor in Texas that Kapur affirmed his true love for cooking. After graduating from the CCA, he worked in Mark Miller's Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, as well as acclaimed local restaurants such as PlumpJack Cafe and chef George Morrone's Redwood Park. Kapur credits his extensive travels around the globe for opening his mind and spirit to
the nature of cooking.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
My family, and growing up in Hawaii—my most memorable experiences were in the kitchen and around the table. I am inspired by the feeling of connecting through food and wanting to share that feeling with others.

What cuisines inspire you?
Coastal Spanish and well-executed Japanese cuisine—simple preparations of the freshest ingredients.

Which chef do you admire most?
Nancy Oakes for her continuous creativity and treating people and food with true respect.

What's your 10-year plan/dream?
Two years ago I had no idea I would be in the position I am in now, so fathoming 10 is impossible. I hope I’m feeding people, and they leave happy.

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
Mikuni Wild Harvest and their BLiS Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup. Many food epiphanies from this product.

What will we never find on your menu?
White truffles. Overpriced and overrated.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
NOPA late night, the house spareribs at Eight Immortals, and al pastor tacos at
Tacos Mexicali.

Favorite late-night snack.
Jalapeño pepperoni pizza from Nizario’s.

How do you like your eggs?
Fried, with Portuguese sausage, eggs and rice.

JONNATAN LEIVA

A CCA graduate and veteran of La Palme D'Or at the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables, Florida; Apicius and Les ´Elyssées Hotel Vernet in Paris; Union Pacific in New York; the Ruby Room in Boston; and Fifth Floor, Grand Café and Redwood Park in San Francisco, Leiva has learned the art of cooking from some of the world's masters. But it was watching his grandmother prepare her authentic Spanish cuisine that sparked his interest in cooking at a very young age.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
My inspiration came from my family; I saw how important it was to be around the kitchen and to eat at the table so you could talk about your day. Those moments made me understand that cooking is a way of life.

What cuisines inspire you?
All types, whatever forms they come in … it’s gotta taste like food, though.

Which chef do you admire most?
Right now I would say Juan Mari Arzak. He has a distinct style that combines Old World techniques with New World concepts and ingredients, while keeping the purity and integrity of his cuisine.

What’s your 10-year plan/dream?
Hopefully opening something with the right people, at the right time. The sky’s the limit!

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
Howard Case of Casa de Case, the best olive oils that you’ll ever try. His olio nuovo is outstanding.

What will we never find on your menu?
Chilean sea bass.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
Burritos at La Corneta, deli sandwiches at Roxie’s and ice cream at Mitchell’s.

Favorite late-night snack.
Popcorn, yum. Simple yet very effective.

How do you like your eggs?
Sunny-side up, nice and runny with a little crispiness around the edges.

Sarah Schafer
Louis Maldonado and Seth Bowden

SARAH SCHAFER

Schafer started working in a bakery at age 14, which ultimately shifted her course away from going to military school, as her father had hoped. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, she worked under culinary visionaries Ken Oringer at Tosca, Boston; Tom Colicchio at Gramercy Tavern, New York; and Kerry Heffernan at Eleven Madison Park, New York, where she was the executive sous chef.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
Without a doubt, it was Julia Child. When I was growing up, I would wait all week to spend Saturday with Julia. Later I had the great fortune of meeting and cooking for her at Gramercy Tavern. It was like my whole culinary life had come full circle.

What cuisines inspire you?
All types, but I have to say French and Japanese. French because of its use and creation of classical cooking techniques and the importance of artistic presentation. Japanese because of its innate cleanliness and love of ingredients in their pure form.

Which chef do you admire most?
Ken Oringer. I learned a great deal from him, but the reason I truly admire him is that he is not afraid to put anything on a plate. He is probably the most creative chef I have worked for.

What’s your 10-year plan/dream?
To own my own restaurant and have a vacation home in Tuscany.

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
Rancho Gordo. They have an amazing variety of heirloom beans and spices. My favorite discovery would be dried hibiscus flowers, surprisingly refreshing and beautiful.

What will we never find on your menu?
Tripe. I know that it’s now considered a delicacy, and many chefs are doing great dishes with it, but I just have never found it appetizing in any form. I can’t create a dish for my guests that I don’t love.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
The Pork Store—there’s nothing better than waking up on Sunday and gorging out at this great greasy spoon; Shabu– Sen in Japantown—I have weekly cravings for sukiyaki; Jeanty at Jack’s—it’s the best French “bistro” in the area, with a fabulous array of charcuterie.

Favorite late-night snack.
Leftover quesadillas. I always have tortillas and cheese in the house, so when I get hungry I just raid the fridge and add in whatever I have lying around.

How do you like your eggs?
With bacon.

LOUIS MALDONADO

A California native, Maldonado was at Lark Creek’s One Market restaurant before joining the opening crew at Cortez, where he worked under culinary “it” couple Quinn and Karen Hatfield for two and a half years. When the Hatfields left Cortez to open Hatfield’s in Los Angeles, Maldonado was promoted to co-executive chef with Seth Bowden.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
I got inspired while cooking for the Hatfields, because I developed a passion for food and cooking and just perfecting.

What cuisines inspire you?
Japanese, because their style of cooking is so different from French technique. I am constantly trying to convert Japanese techniques for application in my kitchen; the food is so pure on a soulful level, and flavorful.

Which chef do you admire most?
Marco Pierre White [of L’Escargot in London]. He was only 33 when receiving three Michelin stars, and his work ethic is inspiring.

What’s your 10-year plan/dream?
I have many! One is a restaurant called Terrine that will offer charcuterie, terrines, cigars and Scotch, while Restaurant Veau will be my fine dining restaurant. Then there’s the American bistro, plus the B&B with a fine-dining restaurant attached!

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
I love my meat salesman, Frank Messmer, who works for Facciola Meat Co. I get a phone call from him every day asking me what I need, and rather then just leaving a voicemail, we talk about products, golfing, and life. He just introduced me to the Masami Farms American-style Kobe beef, amazing quality and flavor.

What will we never find on your menu?
Seared ahi, because it is so 1990.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
La Parrilla Grill, cocktails at Bourbon & Branch, and Sunday brunch at Foreign Cinema.

Favorite late-night snack.
I am pretty lucky to have my wife cooking for me when I get home, so generally it’s Korean food or a panini from our new panini maker.

How do you like your eggs?
Sunny-side up.

SETH BOWDEN

A transplant from Schenectady, New York, Bowden got his start in the dining-hall kitchen at college, where he met his wife. After marrying, they traveled extensively, with Bowden working as a cook and chef in New York, New Mexico, Australia, Oregon, Paris (where he truly committed to being a chef, earning a diplome de cuisine from the Cordon Bleu), Cape Cod, and now San Francisco for the past three years.

Who or what inspired you to be a chef?
My father’s garden had a very important role in my understanding of flavors. But in terms of being a cook, it was just a job at first, but I quickly embraced the life of a cook and sought the challenge of trying to do my best at something that pleased not only me, but the customer.

What cuisines inspire you?
I’ve never identified with any one cuisine; rather I find that I really enjoy the technical parts of cuisines. I’m a food nerd. Naturally I was drawn to French cuisine at first, thinking it was the pinnacle of technical finesse. I’ve since realized that technical cuisine has more to do with the chef and his interests than the history of the food he is preparing.
Which chef do you admire most?
Nick Flores, our pastry chef. He is a genius, genuine, hard working, and he makes sweets sing.

What’s your 10-year plan/dream?
Plan A: Own and operate a fine and prepared foods store where the public can buy restaurant-quality foodstuffs and prepared foods to enjoy at home. The store would ideally have a bistro attached, and space to host classes and special dinners. Plan B: Retire to a coconut farm/auberge in Fiji.

Favorite purveyor discovery, and their product.
I’m with Lou.

What will we never find on your menu?
Raw garlic.

Three favorite things/places to eat in SF.
Croissants at Tartine Bakery, Incanto, Cafe Gratitude.

Favorite late-night snack.
Two eggs, over easy, buttered toast.

How do you like your eggs?
Over easy, 63° C, loose, and generally unadorned.

Information:

Boulevard Restaurant
One Mission St.
www.boulevardrestaurant.com 543-6084

Cortez Restaurant & Bar
550 Geary St.
www.cortezrestaurant.com
292-6360

Frisson
244 Jackson St.
www.frissonsf.com
956-3004

Jack Falstaff
598 Second St.
www.plumpjack.com
836-9239

Myth Cafe
490 Pacific Ave.
www.mythsf.com
677-4289

 


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