BUENA VISTA CAFE—A wharf institution famous for its Irish coffees with a menu including burgers, sandwiches and seafood, along with hearty breakfasts. $–$$. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. 2765 Hyde St. (at the cable car turnaround). 474-5044 Map 1, B2

CAFÉ NIEBAUM-COPPOLA—A casual spot for pasta, paninis and pizza, with a wine-tasting bar, at the foot of the historic Sentinel Building, owned by filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola. $$. Serves lunch and dinner daily. 916 Kearny St. at Columbus Ave. 291-1700 Map 1, D4

CAFFE TRIESTE—This family–owned spot serves strong cappuccinos made from house–roasted beans. On Sa afternoons, the owners and their friends sing Italian love songs. Light fare available. $. Open 6:30 am until late night daily. 609 Vallejo St. 392-6739 Map 1, D3

SAMOVAR—This Castro tea room offers an amazing array of international foods designed to pair with selections off an expansive tea list. $$. 10 am–10 pm daily. 498 Sanchez St. at 18th St. 626-4700 Map 2, H6